Louis Rouffaud
Deep water soloing simply is not for the faint of heart. Are you looking to get out of your comfort zone? Maybe push your limits? This is the sport for you.
More likely than not you’re going to get a sunburn, hit the water hard, and get numerous cuts and bruises. But if you’re up for the challenge, this adventure could be the highlight of your summer. Or rather, as it was for me, the highlight of my year.
What is deep water soloing?
For those new to the climbing world, soloing is simply rock climbing outside without any safety gear. Deep water soloing (DWS) is the much safer younger sibling to soloing. If you lose your grip, you have deep water (as per the name) to safely break your fall.
Understanding the lingo: DWS & psicobloc
Elaborating further, the Malta Climbing Club DWS guide explains,
“Climbers tend to use the term DWS for climbs that go vertically up away from the water, and end either with a top out or with a graceful jump into the water. The onus is on the climber to make sure their fall is clear and into water which is deep enough to fall or jump into.”
Psicobloc is simply another name for deep water soloing and can be used interchangeably. As the sport originated on the sunny island of Mallorca, psicobloc is the original name — more on climbing in Spanish paradise later.
Deep water soloing basics: equipment & getting started
As equipment goes, this is straightforward. All you’ll need is a pair of climbing shoes.
Remember that climbing shoes aren’t typically made to be submerged in water. In my experience, although the leather may get distorted or discolored, the rubber and more essential aspects of the climbing shoe should be undamaged.
Apart from climbing shoes, some recommend bringing a chalk bag or liquid chalk. I wouldn’t bother bringing your chalk bag as it’ll get soaked but a small bottle of liquid chalk could be a good bet.
How to get started
Although people who haven’t climbed before can DWS, I wouldn’t recommend it. Even if you’re a pristine athlete, say a giga chad or the next Usain Bolt, climbing requires a highly particular skillset.
This is what you should do if you’ve never climbed before.
Get out to your local bouldering gym and get in a few sessions. This will build up your stamina allowing you to climb for longer when you’re outside. Specifically working the fingers, grip, and forearms which you probably don’t hit in your usual gym session.
If curious, read my brother’s experience bouldering for the first time in 2022.
Additionally, understanding some climbing fundamentals will be a massive help. Especially when you’re out in the elements away from a comfortable bouldering gym. For those interested, check out this article covering climbing basics.
Where can you DWS?
You can DWS along the shore of any body of water — as long as it’s deep enough of course. Typically searching for climbing and bouldering spots you can use theCrag but for deep water soloing it’s trickier. I recommended reading through forums on Mountain Project but sometimes a quick google or post on a reddit forum can be your best option.
If all else fails, get outside and find some undiscovered routes.
International deep water soloing
Looking to DWS on your holiday?
While living in Malta last year, I went with the Malta Climbing Club on their yearly outing, and I couldn’t recommend this more. Especially for your first time, having some seasoned vets show you the ropes makes the experience all the more enjoyable. Not to mention they’ll know all the best spots.
Apart from Malta, I would look at places like Mallorca in Spain, Azores archipelago in Portugal, the Hawaiian island of Maui, and Thailand. These more well-known destinations will have guidebooks and paid tours for a more tailored experience. Rock&Water Mallorca is one of these adventure tour businesses who also provided the images for this article.
Use these idyllic shots for inspiration to book that Mallorca holiday this summer.
Planning a deep water soloing adventure
You’ve made it this far and I hope I’ve inspired you to risk life and limb for your own climbing adventure. Or at a minimum a little sunburn.
While out on your escapades, deep water soloing can easily take all day. Especially when you find your groove on the rock. Thus, while you’re planning, assume you’ll be out there longer than anticipated.
What to bring
Use this list to help you get organized before heading to the great outdoors:
- Climbing shoes
- Liquid chalk (optional)
- Sunscreen
- Sunglasses or hat
- Towel
- Swimsuit
- Change of clothing
- Dry bag
- Water
- Meal and snacks
Preparations & getting to your climbing route
As preparations go, the obvious weather check is essential. If it’s going to be raining, skip for another day.
For those along the seaside, peak at a wind map to see what the conditions will be. Even if it’s a beautiful day, you don’t want huge swells which will have you fighting to keep your head above water once you fall in.
Moving on, the next consideration is getting to the route.
Typically, you’ll find access points in one of three ways: from the water, from the top, or somewhere from the side. If you’re starting your climb from the top or side, you’ll have to take extra care to find a good exit point from the water if you fall in. From the water, going via boat or paddle board is best if the option is available.
Staying safety while deep water soloing
Remember to always climb with a partner and keep in mind that this type of climbing can be highly dangerous, especially for those who aren’t the strongest of swimmers.
Always take proper precautions and stay safe out there.
Pushing the limits: Psicobloc Open Series
As a testament to the evolution of the sport, deep water soloing now has competitions around the world with some serious cash winnings. With two identical 18m routes side-by-side, competitors race to the top to progress to the next round. Psicobloc Open Series is the most illustrious of these events with three competitions later this year:
- Marseille, France: August 31 – September 1
- Umag, Croatia: October 5-6
- Leonidio, Greece: October 26-27
If you’re in the neighborhood, check out these world class athletes race to the top or fall spectacularly into the water.
Looking for more niches?
Find everything you’re looking for while researching niche sports and adventure here at UgS. If you liked this article, check out similar pieces like running the Midnight Sun Marathon in Norway, training Capoeira in Brazil, and knowing the best martial arts for the streets.
Read all that and more in the subcultures section of Underground Sound.
